Daunted with show bills consisting of fifty classes or more, judges know the importance of evaluating entries efficiently to limit class durations. It’s simple math. If the show is scheduled to run from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. , the judge is provided with a mere eight hours to evaluate and place the entries in each of the fifty or more classes that are being offered. As most shows offer breaks between halter and riding classes, as well as provide a minimum of a half hour lunch, this dwindles the eight hours down to seven. With a fifty-class show bill, this leaves an average of 8.4 minutes to judge each class. This number grows even smaller when you consider that some classes, such as showmanship and the patterned equitation classes abscond with more than their share of the average. What all of these calculations mean is that in a class of only fifteen entries, each horse will be viewed a total of only thirty-three seconds!

You want to make the most of that half minute, and you will not do so if you don’t make a notable first impression. Ultimately, the goal of horse showing is to reward the most correct horse and/or rider, but if you blend in on the rail, how can you expect the judge to notice you? It is for this reason that riders are beginning to wear show clothes that, literally, demand the judge’s attention.

Before the big shows approach, take some time out of your busy training schedule and evaluate your current show ensemble. If you find that items need to be updated or replaced, you will need to decide if you would like to purchase on-the-hanger, ready-to-wear garments or an article of clothing custom-created specifically for you. In any case, your show clothing should be carefully scrutinized for proper fit, color options, and acceptable style, for it is these three characteristics that determine the success of a properly assembled show turn-out.

Proper Fit ...
Regardless of the discipline you choose to ride, proper fit of your show clothing should be one of your top garment priorities. You may be the proud owner of the most stylish ensemble, but your investment will be for naught if it doesn’t fit properly. Billowy sleeves and flowing, blousy fabrics exaggerate even the slightest movements and will detract from your polished equitation position. Wrinkles caused by oversized tops, breeches, or chaps may alter the appearance of your equitation, resulting in the illusion of slouching posture or improper leg placement. Conversely, clothing that is too small will result in unsightly bulges that will obviously detract from your overall appearance.

When evaluating an article of show clothing, stand in front of a full-length mirror and view yourself from several angles. If possible, throw a saddle on a sturdy rack and set your body in equitation position. If you are in a store or location where such a prop is not accessible, then strike a pose! Bend your arms as if you were holding a set of reins and imitate the position in which your body would be if you were actually riding. Put your joints through a range of motion to be sure that you have room to move. Take the extra time to ensure that the clothing is comfortable. A garment, no matter how exquisite, will be of no use to you if the fabric is itchy or if the seams rub and irritate your skin. The clothing should provide a glove-like, tailored fit, but should not be binding or restrictive. Your goal is to concentrate on your riding, not clothing-induced discomfort.

Hat ...
A hat should be worn squarely on the head, not cocked back on the crown like a cowpoke in the old western films. It should fit snugly, but comfortably. If your hat is too loose, it will have a propensity to blow off. This proves to be a nuisance for the ring steward who must retrieve it for you after every class. In addition, it causes much undue wear and tear on your investment. On the other hand, a hat that is too tight will result in pain and undue headaches. When in doubt, err on the side of too large. You can always adjust the size of a hat by placing foam or folded paper towel into the hatband until the desired fit is achieved.

Top ... Jackets/Shirts ... Of every article of show clothing you wear, your top will be the most distinctive. It is important that it is well-tailored to your body, regardless of whether you are wearing a jacket or a shirt. The goal is not to achieve skin-tight, but rather a tailored, close-fitting garment. Pay particular attention to how the garment fits across the shoulders, bust and waist. An equitation shirt should fit so well that you can see the subtle curve to the rider’s back coursing all the way down to the waist. It should not be so loose in the lower back that it rolls outward over the waist of the pants or chaps.

Sleeve and hem length are the last two measurements that require careful assessment. A sleeve that appears to have adequate length while your arms are at your sides may no longer fit when you bend your arm at the elbow as you would for equitation or showmanship. Your sleeves should be hemmed such that they lie exactly on the line where your wrist meets your hand while your arms are in their proper show position. The hemline is not too important for equitation shirts that you will be wearing tucked into your pants, but if the hem is too short, it may come untucked while you are riding. If you plan to wear your horsemanship shirt in showmanship as well, and the style is conducive to doing so, consider leaving it untucked if it fits well over your hips. In this case, the hem should lie at the widest point of your hips. The same recommendations hold true for jackets with the exception of day coats, which traditionally possess a longer hem.

If you will be making your own shirt or jacket or have a seamstress who will be custom sewing one for you, it is important to keep these fitting requirements in mind. Occasionally, you may encounter a shirt pattern at your local sewing center that can be translated to the arena, however, a better source of sewing patterns for equestrians is a mail order company called SuitAbility (www.SuitAbility.com). They sell comprehensive patterns for all disciplines of riding ranging from dressage to side saddle to western. New patterns are introduced as needed to remain current with the styles seen in today’s show arena.

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Vests ...
Vests can be very effective show tops, even in horsemanship classes if they fit properly. The hem of a vest should lie just below the belt loops of your pants -- any lower than this will cause the back of the vest to wrinkle and bunch, thereby destroying the straight silhouette of your back. If you purchase a vest that is too short, it may ride up, causing your slinky to pooch out underneath. Gaping at the arm holes or neckline indicates too large a vest or an improper fit in the shoulders and/or bust. A properly fitted vest should lie smoothly and free of wrinkles or bulges.

Pants ...
In general, Western pants should fit no differently than a pair of jeans or business slacks. Too loose, and they will look slovenly, too tight and they will over-exaggerate every curve or bulge. Pants must be wide enough at the bottom to accommodate your boot tops, but should not flare. Length is extremely important. A few years ago, it was popular to wear crisp, dark jeans with a longer leg and let it “stack” or wrinkle at the hem. The new trend is to wear a more professional pant, such as those constructed of polyester or linen. The hem should cover the leather uppers of your boot, draping across the angle where your foot meets your leg. There should be no wrinkles in the pant leg at all. Saddle seat jodhpurs should fit smoothly over your thighs and have a little flare at the bottom. Length is vital in these pants as you will have no chaps to cover them, nor can they be tucked into your boots if they are too short. Jodhpurs must be long enough to drape nicely at the angle where the top of your foot meets your leg. Because pant legs have a tendency to migrate upwards when a rider is mounted and properly positioned, pin the hem in your jodhpurs while you are mounted. If you find that the hems of your riding jodhpurs are too long when you are dismounted for the halter classes, consider purchasing a separate pair and hem them appropriately. Breeches should lie smoothly stretched across body surfaces…there should be no wrinkles. There is a tendency for riders to think that breeches are supposed to be tight. They are not! Who wants to ride around all day in pants that you were practically poured into? Not only is this uncomfortable, but it is unsightly. Find a pair of breeches that fit comfortably and smoothly and you will enjoy hours in the saddle!

Chaps ...
The most expensive articles of clothing required to complete a western riding outfit are chaps. To be sure you get the most of your financial investment, consider biting the bullet and commissioning a custom clothier to create a pair made specifically to your measurements. You pay too much for a quality pair of chaps not to have a pair that fits. Chaps that come ready-made will not conform to your individual measurements. The result will be chaps that gape at the waist, wrinkle at the knee, hang loosely on your calf, squeeze your thigh…you get the picture. If your weight tends to fluctuate, or if you want a little extra “give” in the thigh, consider having a section of lycra or similar stretch material incorporated into the inner thigh under the fringe. It will be invisible when you are riding and will ensure your comfort. If your only option is a pair of ready-made chaps, you will need to do your research to be sure you are purchasing a pair that fits adequately as any gaping or wrinkling will detract from your show ring appearance.

Color Choice...
With the high level of competition these days, riders must do all they can to be seen on the rail and remembered. For this reason, you must choose your colors wisely. A vibrant color will allow you to be easily seen and will set you apart from your competition.

To get more bang for your buck (if you ride Western) choose neutral tones for your chaps and pair them with brightly colored or contrasting tops. It is not currently fashionable for adult riders to wear brightly colored chaps; colors are considered juvenile and are reserved for the youth classes. Besides, neutral shades provide you the freedom to introduce other colors without having to invest in a hoard of chaps. Because of its color versatility, the dominant chap color seen in the ring today is black. If you choose to wear black chaps, assume that you will be among 75% or more of the other riders. To stand out in the crowd, choose tops with vivid color and exceptional styling.

When deciding on a color for a show outfit, you must consider the color of your horse. Bay, black, grey, roan and white horses all look stunning in the vibrant jewel tones such as purple, red, green, and royal blue. Chestnut, dun and palomino horses lend themselves well to the neutral tones such as sand, cream, chocolate/whiskey, and French tan. Almost all equine coat shades can be complemented by shades of green or blue, such as teal, turquoise, and hunter green. Each year, new colors fads are introduced. Last year country cream and French tan were all the rage in the Western show ring. Though they continue to be popular, the trends are changing. Retro styling and colors have invaded the show arena, with the most prominent “new” color --chocolate brown! Be careful not to fall victim to a color fad. Brown may complement a palomino or light-coated horse beautifully, but will be lost on a darker color such as a brown or bay. Always consider your horse’s coat color before deciding upon the colors of your show outfit.

Hunt Seat...
is steeped in tradition. For this reason, color choices for hunt clothing are conservative and limited. As always, choose a color that complements your horse. For example, a charcoal coat can be breathtaking on a horse that is white or grey whereas a brown coat will correspond well with a palomino or dun. The most commonly seen colors for hunt coats are navy or black. Hunt seat riders can create some variety in their choices of coats by choosing between a solid fabric or a subtle pattern, such as a pinstripe or herringbone. Careful pairing of a hunt coat with a corresponding shirt and breeches can provide a unique look as well. Just as in the Western arena, certain accent colors may come into style and pass, depending upon the fads and fashions for the current year. Last year, French blue shirts and olive breeches were very popular. If you stick to the traditional colors, however, your show outfit may last you several years instead of a single season. For equitation, consider breeches of a darker shade to quiet your movement and create more uniform appearance; but be aware that darker colors may also cause you to blend in on the rail.

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Style ...
As my recent experiences in the hunt seat and saddle seat arenas have been limited, this section will cover the current styles seen in western riding only. To get a feel for today’s fashions for your chosen discipline, there are countless resources available to you. Consult your trainer or local tack store, browse the photos in national equine publications, view the win photos and advertisements in breed journals, surf the internet, or attend a few local horse shows or horse fairs. Keep in mind that the fashions worn at the national and world breed shows usually dictate the styles for the next show season.

Western Fashions...
Western fashions have begun to mimic the glamorous and glittery styles often seen in Hollywood or Las Vegas. Vibrantly-colored yokes, rhinestones, nailheads, metallic and pearlized leathers and luscious suedes are all the rage. Retro-inspired leather appliqués of roses, spurs, bucking broncos, longhorn bulls and other western motifs are extremely popular in today’s arena. You must remember however that the judge will be viewing you from a distance of 20-60 feet. The design on your show apparel must be simple enough that it is visible from at least that far away. Stick with simple designs and bright colors if you wish to catch the judge’s eye. Whether you decide to wear a jacket, shirt or slinky, consider patterns that possess an interesting and attractive side-view. You can accomplish this with leather appliquéd or rhinestone studded sleeve adornments or decorative cuffs.

If you plan on creating your own clothing, faux leathers and suede fabrics are available at your local sewing center for considerably less cost than real leather. Some of these imitations are convincing, especially across the distance of an arena, but don’t be afraid to use real leather. All of my custom creations are sewn on a 25-year-old, light-duty, Singer sewing machine. My experience has taught me that 3oz weight leather is great for a vest bodice or light-weight chaps and 1.5-2 oz weight lambskin or garment cowhide works wonderfully for yokes and trims.

Choices in show tops are numerous. The showmanship tunic gained popularity in the show arena late last show season and has continued to be trendy. It is a refreshing alternative to thigh-length jackets. Match the fabrics of the tunic to the fabrics of your pants and brighten your face with a flashy, glittery yoke. Don a pair of matching gloves and dare the judge not to look at you! If you prefer the thigh-length jackets over the styling of the tunics, never fear. Jackets are still well-accepted in the ring, but be sure that the style is updated. Today’s jackets are adorned with leather yokes and trims, western-influenced appliqués, crystal rhinestones, and shiny nailheads.

Slinkies are still very popular when worn by themselves as a simple horsemanship shirt, but they look much nicer under a vest or jacket. This year’s modification to the slinky is the addition of rhinestone and nailhead embellishments on the sleeves and collars. Before you rush out to buy that new $50 embellished slinky, consider updating your old slinkies by purchasing a Bedazzler rhinestone setter or a simple hand-setter from your local craft store. The type of crystals you use is important. Swarovski crystals are the best and are famous for their brilliance and shine. They are usually sold by the gross (144 count) and can be secured to your garment in a variety of ways. Setting stones in rim mounts is the favored approach of most custom clothiers. Avoid using iron-on or glue-on stones as these varieties fall off fairly easily. Two reliable embellishment sources on the internet are www.rhinestoneguy.com and www.skatedesign.net.

Looking for something to top your slinky? Leather vests continue to gain acceptance in the pleasure and working cowhorse arenas. If you partake in reining or cutting, accentuate your movement and velocity with fringe! It is a hot new accent for the retro styled vests this year.

Consider a horsemanship shirt with a long hem if you would like a versatile garment that can take you from the halter ring to the riding classes. With such a garment, you may leave the shirt untucked and wear it like a tunic for the halter classes. When it is time to transition to the riding classes simply tuck in your hem.

If you need to update your chaps this season, consider the addition of “smoothies” to your wardrobe. Smoothies are leather chaps made from high-quality, smooth-grained leather. They have gained in popularity over the past year or so as they provide a fresh look to chaps, are extremely durable, and can last several demanding show seasons if properly cared for. In addition, they are very easy to clean…you simply wipe the dirt off with a wet rag.

It makes no difference what articles of clothing you are considering for this year’s show ensemble...you need to make the investment of time and money (how much is up to you) to be certain that you will look the winner you are this show season. Research current styles, choose colors that complement your horse, and do all you can to ensure the proper fit of your garment and you will make a notable first impression. Good luck and enjoy the shows this year!