Sensible Saddle Storage

Proper saddle storage is important for keeping the leather in good repair and extending the life of a saddle­whether you are storing it for short periods between uses or for a longer term such as over winter of for several years.

For long-term storage, he recommends cleaning the saddle first and giving it a light coat of oil, then leaving it on a good saddle stand. "Some people hang their saddles with a rope or thong, from the horn. We used to do that all the time on the ranch when we were using a saddle, but it¹s not good for long term storage. When a saddle is hanging, the horn is up and stirrup leathers hang too far back, and may get a permanent bend or crease in them." If it¹s to be stored, make sure it¹s in a natural position, so it won¹t bend any of the leathers or skirts.

"If it¹s on a saddle stand, you may also want to take a short broom handle and put it through the stirrup leathers. Sometimes after a long period, stirrups will relax to where they¹d be flat against the horse, rather than turned out for your foot­unless they are rolled, twisted and wrapped while they are stored. Some saddle stands today have a little hook that comes out to hold that stirrup leather in place," says Minor.

"If you are going to store it a long time, you may also want to take off the cinch. You could take off the back cinch and hang it up. Many saddles today have cinch carriers on the off side, and you can store the saddle with the rear cinch rolled up and hooked onto that. But if it will be stored for long time, don¹t roll up the cinch; it¹s better to take it off and store it flat or hanging, so it¹s not curled," he says.

"Saddle strings should be left hanging straight; if you have anything tied to the saddle, take that off. Treat the strings with a light coat of oil or some saddle butter so there are no crimps and the strings aren¹t dry. Never store a saddle on top of a wet saddle blanket. If you are done with it, dry the saddle blanket!"

Some saddle stands are made using a small pole for the top, or with 2 by 8 boards, put together in a peak-roof shape. If the stand is too narrow or the top of it too high, the saddle may rest with its weight on that sharp peak rather than on the bars of the saddle where it should be. This can be hard on the saddle. The stand should be flatter, so it won¹t come up between the bars. "The saddle will do better if it¹s sitting on the stand as it would sit on a horse," he says.

"If you are going to store it for a long time, check on it once a year to see how the leather is. If it¹s feeling dry, give it another coat of oil or conditioner. After you¹ve cleaned it initially (before storage) you probably wouldn¹t have to clean it again; you may just need to add another light coat of oil, so the leather stays pliable. It can dry out, just from sitting. The changes in temperature and humidity can take a toll, and in a dry climate the leather tends to dry out. If you can put some moisture back into it, it¹s better," says Minor. Leather that just sits stationary also seems to become less pliable than leather that¹s being used. Using it keeps the fibers moving, he says.

Many of the saddles that are stored for a long time are older saddles­a saddle that was used by an earlier member of the family and has sentimental value perhaps, or a saddle you¹ve kept after replacing it with one you had custom made for your present horse. Many older saddles have the problem of being too dry, especially if they haven¹t been conditioned or oiled for awhile. Some of these may need quite a bit of care to get them fully functional again.

"If you haven¹t oiled a saddle and it¹s been stored several years but is basically in pretty good condition, you may just need to put a light coat of oil on it, using a bit of oil on a rag. You don¹t need it saturated; just get the leather damp on the top surface. Some people overdo it," he says. "If you plan to store a saddle for quite a while, give it a good cleaning first (taking it apart) or take it to a saddle maker to tear it down and clean it. Then you know it¹s in good shape, and when you pull it out again, it¹s ready to go," he says.

"If you¹ve been using a saddle a long time, there¹s dirt and maybe fire needles and grime up under the skirts. If you only clean it on the outside, you don¹t get that stuff out. It¹s best to just take the conchos off, and if you have some knowledge about a saddle, go ahead and pull the skirts off and clean those, between the skirt and the bars. Sometimes dirt gets up under there. Pull the front seat jockey up; sometimes fir needles work down in there by the swells and get under the seat. Rake all that stuff out of there and clean it really well. Take the back jockeys off and clean under them," says Minor.

"Generally a full cleaning and oiling will cost anywhere from $40 to $75 at a saddle shop, depending on how dirty the saddle is. This would clean it up well, to where you could put it into storage for a long time and it will stay in good condition. If you do it yourself it will take you 2 or 3 hours to do a good job, to clean everything, including the stirrups and tread," he says.

"The treads on stirrups may or may not be very dirty. If you¹re just using the saddle in an arena you may not get them dirty. But if you¹ve been out in the hills getting on and off, or in the corral, you may have mud or manure on the treads. The acid in manure will eat the leather and it may need to be replaced."

Some straps and strings may be worn and need to be replaced also. A little care before you store the saddle will ensure that it doesn¹t deteriorate over time, and will be ready to use when you need it again.